Traveling the Silk Roads

We tend to use the phrase "the Silk Road" as if it were the Route 66 of East-West commerce. In fact, it is a metaphor. German geographer Ferdinand Freiherr von Richthofen (1833-1905) invented the name in the late nineteenth century, long after the overland luxury routes between Asia and the West had been supplanted by the sea trade. Instead of a single "Silk Road", trade between China and the West traveled over a network of hazardous routes that led from China across Central Asia and then over the Iranian plateau to Baghdad and Damascus, or through the Syrian desert to the Mediterranean. The routes shifted as empires and markets rose and fell or stretches were rendered unsafe by armed nomads, bandits, war, disease, or tax collectors.

The Chinese had produced silk for several thousand years and traded with Central Asia for about a century when Rome discovered silk and what we think of as the Silk Road began. Rome first encountered silk in 53 BC in a battle with the Parthians outside of Carrhae. According to Plutarch, the Romans were blinded when the Parthians unfurled their embroidered banners, "shining with gold and silk." Within sixty years of the defeat at Carrhae, the Roman Senate passed sumptuary laws forbidding men to wear silk. Roman critics grumbled about the effects of silk on Rome's morals--and its trade balance. Romans paid for unwoven Chinese silk in gold, weight for weight; Pliny the Elder estimated that Rome lost 45 million sesterces a year to the silk trade. (To put this in context, a loaf of bread cost about half a sesterce. Forty-five million is a lot of sandwiches.)

Goods traveled all the way from Asia to Europe and from Europe to Asia; traders did not. First the Parthians, then the Sassanians and finally the Islamic kingdoms of Central Asia, blocked direct trade between China and the West--something that both the Chinese and the Romans complained about bitterly. The wealth of the silk trade created thriving cities and prosperous kingdoms throughout Central Asia. Well aware of the importance of the merchant caravans, Central Asian rulers built networks of caravansaries along the roads that linked the major cities: fortified inns that offered secure accommodations for merchant caravans that might include as many as 1,000 camels.

In the thirteenth century, the major routes of the East-West trade came under the control of the Mongols. Markets and producers that had been separated by hostile powers since the fall of Alexander the Great's short-lived empire were once again linked under a single government. The Mongols boasted that a young woman could walk from one end of the empire to the other carrying a pot of gold on her head without being molested.* For the first time, merchants like Marco Polo were able to travel the entire length of the trading routes from Europe to China and back, though not many did.

The death of the Mongol ruler Timur** in 1405 was the beginning of the end of the Silk Roads. His successors were not able to hold together the vast Mongol empire. The Khanates disintegrated into a handful of warring Central Asian states, unable to control or protect the East-West trade.

China, too, was in a period of upheaval. The death of the last Mongol ruler of China is 1386 was followed by the rise of an ethnically Chinese ruling dynasty for the first time in centuries. The Ming rulers wanted to cleanse China of the corruption of foreign rule and restore traditional Chinese values.*** In 1426, the Ming Emperor Yongle closed China's borders to the northwest.

China's borders were closed, but caravans continued to travel west for another hundred years. The Silk Roads met their end when European discoveries in navigation and shipbuilding opened up the sea route to India. The sea route was faster and less expensive. The caravans that traveled the Silk Roads were no longer needed to bring silk and spices from the East to the markets of Europe. Slowly the Silk Roads withered until only the romance remained.

* I have my doubts.
**You may know him as Tamurlane, the Anglicized version of a jeering nickname given him by his enemies-- Timur-i-lang, Timur the Lame.
*** [political rant redacted]

Road Trip Through History: The Planning Stages

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My Own True Love and I are in the early planning stages of an adventure. This fall we're going to drive along the Mississippi from Minnesota to Louisiana on the Great River Road. * Three weeks of roots music, regional food, and historical sites. (Not to mention blog posts.)

It's an open question whether we'll make it all the way down river to the the Gulf. We have some old friends on the road that it will be tempting to stop at again: the Fort Crawford Museum at Prairie du Chien in Wisconsin, Cahokia Mounds outside of St. Louis, the River Music museum in Dubuque… There are places we've wanted to see for a long time: the Ornamental Metal Museum** in Memphis and the WWII Museum in New Orleans to name two. And we are big believers in driving with serendipity. It's possible that we'll never make it out of Minnesota.

We obviously have some tough choices to make. I'm hoping to get a little help from the folks who visit the Margins. What are your must-see historical sites along the Mississippi--famous and obscure alike? Which widely heralded sites are duds, or closed for construction? What little town has a great restaurant, bakery, farmer's market, or music venue? Traveling history nerds want to know.

*Which isn't actually a single road but a conglomeration of local and state roads. Sort of like the Silk Road.

** So many ways to be nerdy, so little time.

Road Trip Through History: The Alamo

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The first thing that struck me about the Alamo when I visited it with My Own True Love back in October* was how small it is.** It casts a historical shadow disproportionate to its size.

The Alamo is billed as "the shrine of Texas liberty". Consequently, I expected a monument to the famous last stand of a small band of Texan soldiers*** against Santa Anna and the Mexican Army in 1836.  I wasn't disappointed.  There was definitely a monument in the best heroic tradition.

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But the modern historical site is more than the shrine it claims to be.  The exhibits at the site definitely tell the story of the besieged garrison--and tell it well.  More interesting, at least to me, they also place the event firmly in the larger historical context of the region.

Here are some of the details that caught my attention:

  • The Alamo was originally built as the church for the mission of San Antonio de Valero in 1718--part of a string of missions built by the Spanish to strengthen their claim to the region in the face of French incursions. (It's no accident that San Antonio and New Orleans were founded the same year.)
  • The mission was supplied with water using technology that was a direct descendent of Arab technologies for making the best use of scarce desert resources--brought to Spain by the Muslims in the 10th century CE. (We divide history up into academic fields for reasons of convenience, but it really is all connected.)
  • Alamo is the Spanish word for cottonwood. (I'm not the only one who wants to know this kind of thing, right?)
  • The story of how the Alamo was saved as an historical monument was interesting in its own right. Adina de Zavel, granddaughter of the first vice-president of the Republic of Texas, was dedicated to the preservation of Texas historic structures. In 1908, "Miss Adina" barricaded herself in the structure for three days and nights to prevent it being razed--a heroic stand on a smaller scale.

The Alamo is a "must-see" if you're in San Antonio. If you're in the area, up for a drive and a hard-core history buff, I recommend that you also visit Fort Martin Scott outside of Fredericksburg, which served as a frontier army post for the United States Army from 1848 to 1853. The buildings were closed when we were there, but the site is designed for self-guided tours.

* What can I say? It's been a busy time here in the Margins. I finally put a sticky on my computer that said "Remember the Alamo". Which made me laugh for several weeks even if it didn't get this post written any faster.

** And it doesn't have a basement. (See Pee-wee's Big Adventure. Or ask Amy Sue Nathan to explain. )

*** Loosely defined