Ida Rosenthal: Dressmaker Turned Underwear Tycoon
As I mentioned recently, I’ve been thinking about women entrepreneurs and their stories in an on-again off-again way for the last few months. As I stumble across them, I’ll share them with you. Because that’s what I do.
Next up, Ida Rosenthal (1886-1973), whom I mentioned in passing several posts ago.
I first stumbled across Ida Rosenthal in 2012 when I was working on Mankind, the Story of All of Us.* I was writing a sidebar titled “The Other Makers of the Modern World” for a chapter that looked at America’s second industrial revolution and how it transformed the world. I was determined to get a woman in the list. (See note below.) Rosenthal, who invented the modern bra in partnership with her husband, seemed like a perfect choice.
I wrote my three sentences about her, and then I rushed on to the next thing because my deadline for the book was short and the process was, to put it mildly, chaotic. I stumbled across her now and then, but I didn’t have women entrepreneurs on my mind and had other stories to tell you here.
In 1905, a young Jewish woman named Ida Kaganovich immigrated to the United States, following her future husband, a sculptor named William Rosenthal. She believed in socialism and women’s rights. She also was determined to work for herself rather than others. Having apprenticed as a seamstress before she left Russia, she bought a Singer sewing machine** on the installment plan and went into business as a dressmaker, first in Hoboken, New Jersey, and later in Manhattan.
In 1921, Ida was presented with a new opportunity. A woman named Enid Bisett owned a dress shop in mid-town Manhattan, Enid Frocks. One day a customer came in wearing a dress that was new to Enid. When Enid asked about it, she learned it was the creation of a dressmaker named Ida Rosenthal. She made contact with Ida, hoping Ida would supply the shop with some of her dresses. The more they talked, the bigger the possibilities seemed. Instead of using Ida as a suppler, Enid suggested a business partnership.
Soon the partnership expanded. When the Flapper look came into style, many women had to wrap their chests, often in a “bandeau bra,” to achieve the fashionable flat-chested “boyish form.” Ida, not built on the flapper model herself, did not like the idea. “Why fight nature?” she asked. Inspired by Ida’s objections, Enid and William created built-in bandeaux with cups that supported and separated the breasts, making more buxom women took better in their flapper dresses. Customers loved the new dresses, but they loved the new support even more. Return customers asked if they could buy the support without the dress.
By 1922, the partners had registered the name Maiden Form. At first they included one extra support with each dress sold. By 1925, at Ida’s insistence, the partners stopped dressmaking so they could focus on their hot new product. They sold 500,000 bras in 1928. By the end of the 1930s, Maiden Form products were sold in department stories around the world.
Ida was the management and marketing genius; William was the designer. (A division of labor we’ve seen before. ) William died in 1958. Ida continued working until she suffered a stroke in 1966. At her death in 1973, she left behind a multi-million dollar business.
*A companion book for the History Channel series of the same name. And yes, I realize there is inherent sexism in the title, but it was set in stone before I joined the project. Over the years, I’ve tried to think of a better title with no success. Especially since the story as the History Channel wanted it told was very male-centric.
**Isaac Singer ‘s sewing machine was the first widely available home appliance. Commercial sewing machines already existed, but Singer not only improved the machine, he also mass-produced them for the home market.
Richard Harding Davis: Journalist-Adventurer
I first ran across Richard Harding Davis (1864-1916) when I was doing research on American foreign correspondents as part of the background for The Dragon from Chicago. He looked like a fascinating character, but he was a generation (or maybe even two generations) earlier than Sigrid Schultz, so I gave him a nod and went on my way. When he recently crossed my path again (1) I decided to give him a closer look.
Davis is best known today as a war correspondent, but in his time he was also famous as a novelist, dramatist, adventurer, and man about town. At one point, he had three plays running on Broadway at the same time. His novels were best sellers. (At least one of them is still in print.) Moreover, several of his books were turned into movies. Much later, one was the basis for a short series on the Wonderful World of Disney. (2) He partied with the Gilded Age’s literary and theatrical elite, and was often the subject of the news as well a reporter of the same. H.L. Mencken, who was known for his caustic wit not for fanboy flattery, once described him as “the hero of our dreams. ” In short, Davis was a Celebrity.
Born in Philadelphia during the American Civil War, Davis came from writing people. His father was the editor of the Philadelphia Public Ledger and his mother, Rebecca Harding Davis, was a well known novelist and journalist in her own right. (3)
After attending Lehigh University and Johns Hopkins without completing a degree, Davis entered the newspaper business, with a little help from his father. He worked as a reporter for The Philadelphia Record for three months before he was fired for incompetence. (Davis claimed his editor didn’t like him because he wore gloves on cold days. ) He went on to work for two other Philadelphia papers, The Philadelphia Press and The Philadelphia Telegraph. While at The Press, he went undercover at a saloon where criminals were known to hang out. There he gained the confidence of a gang of burglars who were terrorizing the saloon and was instrumental in their capture—an adventure that allowed him to write about burglary from the inside. (4)
From Philadelphia, Davis moved to New York, where worked first as a reporter for The Evening Sun and later as the managing editor for the illustrated magazine Harper’s Weekly.
After three years at Harper’s Weekly, he left to devote himself to his own writing. He published several popular travel books based on his experiences as a roving reporter for a variety of publications. His travels also provided the raw material for his fiction, which generally centered on a “gentleman-adventurer” who bore a resemblance to Davis himself.
In 1896, Davis added war correspondent to the mix, when William Randolph Hearst, owner and editor of the New York Journal, who went on to build the Hearst media empire, commissioned Davis to cover the Cuban rebellion against Spanish rule. (5) Davis’s stories from Cuba helped created a new American interest in the rebellion.
He went on to report on the Greco-Turkish war of 1897, the Spanish -American War (1898) (6) the Second Boer War (1899-1902) , the Russo-Japanese War (1905), the Balkan Wars (1912-1913), the attempted revolution in Venezuela (1902), and what was then called the Mexican Punitive Expedition (1916) . His war reporting in this period was much like his travel writing, with a swashbuckling style, vivid metaphors, and a romantic vision of war. He often worked in isolated locations, and placed himself in the middle of an adventure. (Even though he lived in a tent and wrote on a typewriter perched on a cracker box, he didn’t exactly rough it. It took several pack animals, and a servant or two, to carry the kit he took into war zones, which included luxuries like a folding bathtub. (7)
By the time World War I began, in late July, 1914, Davis was the best-known and best-paid reporter in the United States. It was a foregone conclusion that he would head to Europe to report on the Great War.
On August 5, 1914, Davis and fellow correspondent Frederick Palmer,—who was also an experienced war correspondent, though in a less heroic mold—sailed for Europe on the Lusitania, with the expectation of receiving credentials from either the British or the French government that would allow them to travel with their armies and file reports on the war from the front. When they arrived, they discovered that Britain, French and Belgium not only refused to issue war correspondent credentials to foreign reporters, but they banned reporters from the war zone. Davis and Palmer ignored the restrictions and made their way to Brussels, armed with U.S. passports and letters from their editors, and prepared to take their chances with the dangers of operating outside the system.
Living in a hotel in Brussels, rather than camping near the front, was a new experience for Davis. So was the war itself. It was not an adventure. It was not romantic. He laid out the difference in a powerful piece he wrote for Scribner’s Magazine after the Germans marched into Brussels:
“As a correspondent I have seen all the great armies and the military processions at the coronations in Russia, England, and Spain, and in our own inaugural parades down Pennsylvania Avenue, but those armies and processions were made up of men. This [the German army] was a machine, endless, tireless, with the delicate organization of a watch and the brute power of a steam roller. And for three days and three nights through Brussels it roared and rumbled, a cataract of molten lead…like a river of steel… a monstrous engine.”
After the Germans took Brussels, Davis learned that the Germans were no more willing to give credentials to reporters than the combatant powers on the other side.
Davis attempted to get closer to the front. (In a taxi!) He had a pass from the German military governor of Brussels that allowed him to travel around Brussels; he hoped it would allow him to travel through the German lines. It did not. He was arrested as a spy and threatened with execution. He talked his way out of danger by promising to walk back to Brussels and check-in with every German officer along the way.
Later, having made his way to the front on the British and French side, he was arrested by the French army as he traveled from Reims to Paris. He used both arrests as fodder for the type of stories for which he was famous, but the war was wearing him down.
In the fall of 1915, Davis left France for the Balkans, at the beginning of the German advance into Serbia. He arrived in Salonika in November, just in time to report on the French retreat from Serbia, only two weeks after they arrived. Together with British photographer James Hare, Davis traveled into Serbia to report on the last Allied fighters there. They found a small British artillery unit commanded by two teenaged British officers, who were dug into a Serbian hillside, protecting the rear of the retreating army. Davis’s story on the unit, “The Deserted Command,” was heroic and heartbreaking.
Davis’s last and most famous story was written after an encounter in Salonika with an American who had volunteered as a medic in the British army. “Billy Hamlin,” the pseudonym Davis gave him, was tired, bitter, disillusioned, and ready to desert. Four war correspondents who had gathered for a drink in a hotel room talked him into going back. “The Man Who Knew Everything” was a new type of story for Davis. It was gritty and realistic, unlike the romantic heroism of his earlier work, and in many ways was a criticism of the heroic brand of war correspondent that he himself had embodied.
It is possible that Davis would have gone on to make a leap to the modern style of war reporting that was taking shape in the hands of younger journalists like John Reed (1887-1920) (8) But he never got the chance. Declaring to a friend that “By gravy, this war is my Waterloo. I’m going home,” he headed back to New York. He died there a few weeks later, at the age of 52.
“The Man Who Knew Everything” ran in the September 1916 issue of Metropolitan Magazine, five months after Davis’s death.
(1) Charles Dana Gibson used Davis as the model for the dashing young men who danced, bicycled, and otherwise frolicked with his eponymous Gibson Girls. (As opposed to the short, balding older men who tried unsuccessfully to flirt with the gorgeous young women.) He—Davis, though I suppose you could make the same claim about Gibson— is credited with making the clean-shaven look popular among young men. Perhaps a reaction to the epic beards sported by many Civil War veterans in the second half of the nineteenth century?
(2) “The Adventures of Gallagher,” the story of a newspaper copy boy with aspirations of becoming a reporter who solves crimes in the Wild West. I remember it mainly as a source of frustration because we always seemed to catch an episode in the middle of the story, which meant I never knew how it started or ended. Grrr.
(3) I originally mistyped that as “write” and was tempted to let it stand.
(4) This was the period when “stunt journalism” was big. Think Nellie Bly (1864-1922), who became famous for going undercover to expose corruption and injustice. Her book Ten Days in a Mad-House documented the horrific conditions she observed when she posed as a mental patient in a New York asylum. But I digress.
(5) Hearst also commissioned noted artist Frederick Remington to illustrate Davis’s articles. It was a golden age of illustration, as well as “yellow journalism.” In a probably apocryphal exchange, Remington is alleged to have cabled Hearst “Everything is quiet here. There is no trouble here. There will be no war. I wish to return.” Hearst’s (also alleged) response: “Please remain. You furnish the pictures, and I’ll furnish the war.” It is an engaging story that first appeared in 1901 and gained traction in the 1930s when distrust of the Hearst media was on the rise. It has became a standard element of histories of the Spanish-American war and Hearst biographies ever since, but it appears to have no more truth than Marie Antoinette’s thoroughly debunked extortion to “Let them eat cake!” Once again, I digress.
(6) In which he hobnobbed with Teddy Roosevelt and the Rough Riders, and helped create the legend surrounding them. In some accounts, he charged up San Juan Hill alongside them. In others, Roosevelt made him an honorary member of the regiment in thanks for rescuing some of its members who were wounded. Maybe. Maybe not. If nothing else, my guess is that Davis’s stories of sitting around the campfire with Teddy and the boys, drinking and telling stories, is probably true.
(7) His kit , which he discussed at length in Notes From a War Correspondent (1905), became part of his persona as a journalist-adventurer
(8) Best known for his work on the Russian Revolution, Reed was a journalist-adventurer in his own right.
From the Archives: Slouching Toward Jerusalem
I really meant to have a brand new blog post for you all today, but the one I was working expanded in all directions (six asterisked footnotes at last count) and finally turned into a tangled mess. The footnotes are currently the only readable part. Rather than leaving you without a Friday post, I’m sharing this one from July 2011, when History in the Margins was only two months old and I wasn’t sure I could find enough to write about. Now, if you’ll excuse me, I have a story to untangle.
I’ve been fascinated by the Crusades for several years now. Not surprising, I suppose, given my basic interest in the times and places where two cultures touch (or in the case of the Crusades, whack at) each other and change. I’ve read accounts of what the Crusades looked like from the Muslim perspective. (Barbarian invaders who didn’t take enough baths). I’ve been fascinated by the changes in Europe that made the Crusades possible. (Do not underestimate the impact of the steel-tipped heavy plow and the horse yoke.) I’ve spent a lot of time on the innovations the Crusaders brought to Europe. (Don’t get me started.) I even toured a Crusader castle in Turkey with My Own True Love, who’s pretty fascinated by the Crusades himself.
But until recently I hadn’t given much though to the place that stands at the very heart of the Crusades: Jerusalem. I “knew”, in a fuzzy general knowledge sort of way, that Jerusalem was a sacred city for Judaism, Christianity and Islam. That was enough.
Until, of course, it wasn’t.
When a recent assignment forced me to think about Jerusalem in a more detailed way, I wasn’t sure whether I wanted to start with Karen Armstrong’s Jerusalem: One City, Three Faiths or Simon Sebag Montefiore’s Jerusalem, the Biography. I choose history over theology pretty much every time. But Montefiore’s book, which traces the history of Jerusalem from the time of David through the Six-Day War, looked like a dense concrete block.
I flipped a coin. History prevailed. (Here’s where I need to say something like “don’t judge a book by its cover”, or at least not by how many pages it has.)
Jerusalem, the Biography may be long, but it’s also fast-paced and smart. Montefiore’s stated goal is “to show that Jerusalem was a city of continuity and coexistence, a hybrid metropolis of hybrid buildings and hybrid people who defy the narrow categorizations that belong in the separate religious legends and nationalist narratives of later times.” He more than succeeds. Montefiore weaves together stories I thought I knew into a larger framework that illuminates them in ways I didn’t expect. Over and over I enjoyed a flutter of recognition, followed by “wow, I didn’t know that”. The book is full of vivid characters: familiar, unfamiliar, and unexpected. (I had no clue that Cleopatra had anything to do with Jerusalem. Did you?)
Montefiore is also is a master of the miscellaneous tidbit. For example: the emperor Vespasian introduced public lavatories to Rome. Today, public lavatories are still known as vespasianos. I don’t know about you, but I find this kind of stuff irresistible.
Between big revelations and fascination tidbits, my library copy was stuffed with Post-it notes by the time I reached the end of the book.
Plenty of intellectual roads lead to Jerusalem. If you’re slouching, marching or just moseying along on any of them, Jerusalem, the Biography would make a good travel guide. But don’t say I didn’t warn you. You’re going to want your own copy–or a lot of Post-its.


